Sausalito Sun Bake

A quiet Spring afternoon on the water with the little helpers.

Resident Sausalito-based square riggers were in attendance.

The Wharram open-deck layout is ideal for lounging and dropping off to sleep....

Its like playing on a raft when you were a kid - or should that be playing on a raft as if you were a kid?

Zzzzzz

2:1 Peak Halyard

Got tired of ruining my hands hauling on the standard 1:1 peak halyard, so while the mast was down checking the rigging recently, I fitted a 2:1 setup.

Original standard setup modified with two single blocks instead of a single double block (see previous post)

New 2:1 setup at mast top (red line)

New 2:1 setup at gaff end (note the dyneema soft shackle)

I've used the new set-up several times already and it is a useful improvement. Peaking the gaff is now little effort and can be done even when the wind is strong. I no longer have to ease the main and head into the wind to adjust the peak tension, but can do it at will when the sail is under load.

Jib sheeting and barber haulers

Had an interesting discussion on the Wharram Builders and Friends website recently about getting the right sheeting geometry for the jib. The problem with the standard Tiki sheeting point is that it is ideal for "footing" to windward or on a close reach, but is a little far from the centerline for tight windward work when the wind is up. Many folks, including myself, have used barber haulers to pull the jib sheets inwards on a tight beat. I have also used barber haulers with great success to pull the jib sheets outboard for beam reaches. The problem with barber haulers is that they can be messy, with lines running everywhere. My own solution follows from experience sailing beach cats where the initial sheeting position is set for the tightest windward work, and any subsequent changes are all outboard as the boats angle to the wind broadens.

I have fitted multiple inboard and outboard sheeting points, and snap shackles to the jib blocks. Instead of using barber haulers, I just unshackle the block and move it too the best sheeting position inboard or outboard. This also works extremely well on reaches, as sheet tension can be applied to shape the sail. Note that I have taken another idea from beachcats which is to double the sheet back to a second block so that you are always pulling the sheet from the same place regardless of sheeting position (I also use a continuous sheet). The fixed block is an autoratchet which allows me to hand hold the sheet even with the large genoa in a strong breeze. I have been using this "system" for many miles now, and it works well (for me).

Block on upwind/inboard sheet position - standard position is loop on cabin side

Still a good "slot" between jib and main in upwind sheet position, as long as main is sheeted in tight

The upwind/inboard sheeting position gives me about an extra 10 degrees to windward over the standard position. However, it doesn't really work well until there is quite a bit of breeze and the sails are sheeted in quite flat, otherwise the jib will backwind the mainsail. I also use downhaul tension on the mainsail to flatten the front part of the sail (see my other post on cunningham/downhaul).

Update. I want to stress that the upwind/inboard position is only good for strong winds (minimum 15 knots apparent). In light winds the most forward standard position gives the best jib shape up to around 10 knots apparent IMHO. From 10 knots apparent the rear most standard position is probably the best. By 15 - 20 knots apparent beating to windward, the inboard position works with the full jib sheeted in tight. Over 20 knots apparent, a reef is needed in the jib.

It is important to keep in mind that trimming for strong wind is killing the power of the sail - you make it flatter and closer to the center of the boat to disrupt the airfoil shape and decrease its power (because you don't need it). In light winds, you are maximizing the air foil shape and presenting the sail to the wind in a way that maximizes its power.